Utah Places: Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley State Park

Goblin Valley is a great example of the unique geological formations found in Utah.  In the valley, there is an unusual concentration of bizarre sandstone formations commonly known locally as "hoodoos".

Sunset in Goblin Valley

According to geologists, the formations resulted from erosion of a softer stratum of the supporting column, while the more obdurate caprock resisted weathering.

Whatever the reason, the weird gnome-like formations abound in this particular locale to make a showplace unlike anything else found on earth.  Not specifically the formations by themselves, which are spectacular enough.  But just the sheer numbers of them in concentration is impressive.  Goblin Valley enjoys some degree of obscurity, being so out-of-the-way and unknown.  So there are relatively few visitors, and you may find, on a casual visit, that you have the place pretty much to yourself.  If peace and solitude is what you seek, this is a good place to find it.

 Goblins galore

Not only that, but Goblin Valley State Park sits like an oasis in the desert, with camping facilities and all kind of modern amenities.  For those wandering souls who have been braving the desert sands for any length of time, it may be that the nice clean restrooms and public showers are the main attraction.

Goblin Valley location and nearby attactions

In addition, the allure of the San Rafael Swell country beckons to the bold.

In the immediate vicinity are a number of stunning slot canyons, some of the most spectacular places on earth.

 Pothole in Little Wild Horse Canyon

 

 Little Wild Horse narrows

 Crack Canyon trailhead

twists and turns in Crack Canyon

driftwood lodged high up in Crack Canyon

 Crack Canyon narrows

 

If 4wd exploring is your interest, the "Behind the Reef" trail and some of the many other dirt trails that wind through the desert may prove attractive.  Many other unique geological formations characterize the San Rafael Swell area.

characteristic "hogback" ridges in the San Rafael Reef

4wd tracks and Factory Butte

The Factory Butte area has become the focus for many wilderness preservation arguments.  The area is a popular destination for 4wd enthusiasts, motorcycle riders, ATV operators, and mountain bikers.  Erosion and vandalism of historic mining works have become common.  Some wilderness preservationists have objected to the use of sensitive desert areas for such abusive and destructive traffic.

BLM report on Factory Butte use

Utah Places: Maple Canyon

Maple Canyon is in the Sanpitch Mountains southwest of Moroni City. More rock climbers from outside of Utah come here than locals. It has a unique feature of deep narrow canyons eroded in a conglomerate rock formation that affords many ideal climbing holds and footrests. Even if you have little interest in rock climbing, it is a spectacular canyon. If you are into this kind of rock climbing, it is Mecca.


The surrounding mountains are worth exploring. There are other excellent places for rock climbing in the nearby canyons. The Maple Canyon area hosts a gem of a public campground that is a nice place to camp. Towering rocks make a dramatic background.

Lots of places to hike and play.

Recomended.

Utah Places: Zions Canyon

If you were creating some of the most spectacular and enjoyable scenery on earth, and you had unlimited time and resources, you would probably come up with something very much like Zions. It is so beautiful, just to describe it in words is a cliche.

One of the problems with Zions park is that it encompasses such a vast area. Touristy types generally stray not too far from the standard fare -- although this is like saying the menu is full with prime rib. The well publicized main features of the park are unique and spectacular attractions. But a short distance from the main track, there are other wonders to behold...



Take the hike upstream from the canyon, and as it , and you encounter the Narrows -- an amazing labyrinth of twists and turns as the upper reaches of the Virgin River climb higher onto the Kapirowits Plateau. As with all canyon hikes, be mindful of frigid water, keeper potholes, and flash flooding with no advance notice flushing through.

Other hikes of note -- and notorious -- include many nearly subterranean adventures through slot canyons, like the famous Subway, pictured here. The Subway is reached via the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead on the highway northeast of the town of Virgin.


Here is another photo of a Zions backcountry destination -- Orderville Canyon. It must be seen to be appreciated. Nothing less than eyes on can convey the scope and breadth of majestic sculpture in these massive canyons.

Utah Places: Robbers Roost

Bluejohn Canyon is a popular slot in the Roost. Just past the Horseshoe Unit of Canyonlands, Robbers Roost is an area where Butch Cassidy's gang used to hole up between robberies, among other places like the Hole in the Wall. You can easily see why law enforcement officials were reluctant to pursue bad men into the Roost country. It was not suited to the advantage of pursuers. The Bad guys could easily lose any posse that might be chasing them through this maze of canyons and winding valleys they knew so well.

I first visited the Roost with the BYU group, and have been back several times to explore the canyon mazes and to look for cowboy loot. I never found any. Just dust and sand.

Utah Places: Deer Creek on Boulder Mountain

If you decide to try Deer Creek, start on a warm day. Take sturdy shoes that can get wet, and plan to plunge right into every hole you meet. You might think you are going to freeze, the water is so bone chilling cold. If it gets too cold. you can always stretch out in the sun on a flat rock like a lizard and soak up some rays. Have someone meet you at the bottom with dry stuff. More fun than anything I can imagine.

Some of the spillways are pretty rough and tumble. Look them over beforehand and skirt them if they look too wild for your swimming class. Use a float if you need it. Plan on being held under waterfalls or gravitys several places on the way down. If that thought doesn't thrill you, this isn't your ride!

Have fun getting wet!!

Utah Places: Happy Canyon, near Escalante

I hiked through Happy Canyon many years ago with a group from BYU. We were supposedly learning wilderness survival skills. I learned something different that day.

In the wilderness, we can learn that Heavenly Father's "natural" creations are magnificent and beautiful, to a degree that is beyond the attainment or grasp of mankind's most sublime creations. Nothing we can do is even close.

Within the walls of Happy Canyon, Walt Disney engineers would weep with envy at the lighting effects alone. But the sheer scale of the canyon, this tiny scratch on a topo map, is simply staggering to experience in the body, as you slither ans bound through the sand from boulder to boulder. As you descend from the top, the canyon walls close off all view of the sky, and reflected light glows pink or red or yellow or orange, depending on how it is being filtered down.

As you descend lower, the walls grow narrow, in places close enough to touch both sides at once. Amazing. Some trick of water and gradual erosion patiently wore the sandstone away, leave this unique slot canyon. Who needs an explanation? It is a miracle of the Creator -- one of so many things that testify of Him.

Utah Places: Eardly Canyon

This place is close to the I15, but hard to find, if tat makes sense. Eardly is a long canyon that parallels the freeway, but hard to find the right little dirt roads that get you right to the canyon.

Anyway, Eardly is fun mostly for some big "keeper" potholes. For those who don't know, potholes are deep pools that hold water even when the desert around has been dry and hot, even sometimes for years. The fun is plunging into that cold water from a hot dusty dry hike. It is refreshing and exhilarating. An added thrill is that some of the deeper pools won't let loose of you too ease. They are the "keepers". Sometimes it takes a rope to scale up the other side.

When I hiked Eardly Canyon, of course I went solo, so I skirted around all the deeper features and just admired the water from afar. I was not brave or fool enough to try any "keepers" by myself, though I am sure it could be done easily. (Ruth, this may be one you might want to take a short hike for a picnic up to the first rope-down. Follow the GPS directions carefully if you decide to try and find it.)

("Keepers" are safe if you have a good plan for getting out BEFORE you jump in. Word of caution to the wise. Let the fools learn by their own mistake. May not get two cances.)

Utah Places: Muddy Creek

An inelegant name for such a spectacular place. Maybe that's why people stay away in droves. Its easy to get into, and starts out good. The canyon just gets better. Its a one way hike so take water, and go half way, then turn around when you are ready to go home. Be sure you can make it back before dark. Wear shoes that are okay for wading. Be prepared to get wet.  Slipping over rocks is pretty common too. Take a picnic for a side canyon excursion. Flowers can be found at the right time and place.

BLM has some advice for would-be hikers.

 viewed from the air

really lives up to its name

Utah Places: Buckskin Gulch, Paria River

You cannot imagine a human feeling smaller under the face of the earth than in place in the bottom of Buckskin Gulch. The walls simply tower so high above at times that human size are like ants by comparison. It is awe-inspiring and awesome. I know nothing to describe or compare. Pictures are just inadequate. Dont do justice to the grand scale of things.

It was all frozen when I was walking. Many of the hikers are repeatedly wet during warmer months. It can be impossible to turn around because deep pools of water prevent you from going upstream once you have slid over boulders to enter the pool beneath them.

It can be a hike that plays for keeps. But the beauty is beyond description.

I did most access cross country hiking. Not supposed to do that. I didn't ask permission, only the rooks were watching. It was my solitary experience.

I also visited a mountain mesa called the White House nearby. Camped out on Paria River area for three days. Never saw another person the whole time. It was very special to me. I have never told about it before.

Utah Places: The Wave

The Wave is a few hundred yards across the border into Arizona, but you have to start in Utah to get there. I went in from Wire Pass Road.  The location used to be actually kinda secret. Now the BLM admins this land at the rather shaky permission of the local Navajos. Only small groups can travel there. Cannot disturb delicate ecosystem, or sacred ground, or something like that depending who ya ask.

Anyway when I went there I sneaked in off season. The area was closed for winter and all the teepees were rolled up for the winter or something. I hiked in across the top of the mesa off trail, not supposed to do that. Found some nice wood and arrow points along the way. No tracks or people, very nervous about that. Lots of desert ravens. I think they know something. But not telling.

Anyway, I came into the Wave formation from the side, and hiked out on the little trail.

It's beautiful, like nothing you have ever seen. I had quite a time finding a down-climb.

Long way to travel. Between Kanab and Page. Near Buckskin Gulch on the Paria Canyon.  Vermillion Cliffs Wilderness/Coyote Buttes area.

For those who prefer a legal visit, the BLM hands out the permits.

Utah Places: Little Wild Horse

Ruth, this one is further away, but a lot easier to hike. Your kids will speed thru it like a nintendo game. It is an actual slot canyon that you can walk into that looks just like the picture or better, you don't have to kill yourself getting there, and it will be FUN!!!!!

Let's try it.

Wait til the weather warms up a bit. The Canyon starts down near Goblin Valley State Park

Might even want to camp out there. Goblin Valley is somewhat of a wonder in itself.

Pointers here and here.