Utah Places: Tushar Mountains

One of the destinations I have neglected to mention is the Tushar Mountains of central Utah.  Perhaps the most attractive feature this area offers is that it seems to be far less popular than Wasatch or Uinta, though the Tushars have many beautiful places.

The highest point is Delano Peak.  Mount Belknap is the other notable destination high point. 

Many of the canyons in the Tushars have been the site for gold mining, and evidence of the mining activity remains.

Bullion Canyon above Marysvale is one such site.

I don't know how much gold was ever extracted, but the miners were certainly ambitious enough in their pursuit.

Delano Peak is home to a substantial Mountain Goat population, and they can often be seen above the tree line.

When I was young, my Dad and his brothers often visited the canyon north of Marysvale for their annual deer hunt.  Some of their adventures in the canyon are nothing less than legendary.  We sometimes stopped at Hoover's Cafe at the mouth of the canyon by the river.

Also just north of the canyon is an area of some geological interest called Big Rock Candy Mountain.  Yes, the Burl Ives song inspired the name, and the silly lyrics adapted by locals to tell all about the curious features.  It really is a geological oddity.  Today the area is a small developed resort, and I tend to avoid such places.  If you have an interest in such amenities they are readily available, also nearby in Beaver, Marysvale, and other local towns.

The Sevier River that flows through the canyon also has some nice trails for biking or hiking.  Some touristy place or other hosts float trips, but the river is pretty placid.  An old innertube would work fine.

I have also visited the area that has previously been the old Elk Meadows and Mt. Holly resort.  The drive up from the Circleville side is a spectacular mountain road climb from the valley into lush green mountain meadows teeming with wildlife.  The roads above the abandoned resort provide good access to Mount Delano.  Apparently the resort has been reopened as a new development called Eagle Point, so I'm not certain of the status of roads that go through private land. 

A beautiful mountain destination, whether you approach from Beaver, Marysvale, or Circleville.

Caution: Do Not Tip the Ancient Rocks!

 Some of the rocks in Goblin Valley are precariously perched

 A couple of guys decided to tip one over

What a tragedy!

  Now there are hardly any rocks left on the whole San Rafael Swell for future generations to tip over!

In typical irresponsible journalistic fashion, the national news media or local newspapers focused on elements of the story that seem not particularly accurate or relevant, but most liable to stir public outrage.

The two men in the short video are characterized as "Boy Scout leaders", though I see no evidence of that.

Also the rock is most particularly identified as an "ancient" rock, whatever impression that might be intended to convey.  Again, no evidence for such an assertion, no particular geologist or authoritative reference given to verify that the rock might have "ancient" or any other particular qualities that might lead us to venerate it beyond the "rockiness" of any other plain old ordinary chunk of geological material.

In general, in the absence of any other compelling evidence, I would suppose that most rocks could be considered quite "ancient" in terms of biological lifespans.

The news story reports that the men "could face class B misdemeanor or second-degree felony charges."  Apparently for assaulting an "ancient" rock.  Or felonious rock toppling.  Or even rockless endangerment.

I can just picture the authorities imposing stiff punitive measures against the underlying strata of dirt and rock that failed to support the toppled boulder.  There should be severe penalties for such an outrageous and culpable lapse, to make a public example of the whole incident.  This should insure that offensive "ancient" rocks will think twice before ever presuming to fall over again.  Thus we can ensure that deseret rocks continue stalwart to do their rockly duty.

Whether or not this was a thoughtless and irresponsible act, it is an obvious indication that the entire San Rafael Swell and other public lands in Utah must be locked up permanently to prevent any future malicious acts of felonious ancient rock tipping. Humans are harming the natural environment and should not be allowed. The state has effectively applied such preservation measures to the Range Creek area, no reason why such methods should not apply to ancient rocks in state lands throughout Utah.

Latest news from the pretty great state...

Apparently the Utah Congressman heeded my recommendations for vigilance against personal assault on defenceless ancient rocks.  He refers to this outrageous destruction as "desecration".   But to his dismay, found that there are no laws in the books to send such scofflaws to the slave galleys, or submit them to be publicly drawn and quartered.

I'd be interested to learn exactly how many visits Rep. Dixon Pitcher might have actually made to the Goblin Valley region.  It seems quite obvious that not many even come near the place.  But to tip rocks over is somehow "desecration". 

According to the Wikipedia, "Many consider acts of desecration to be sacrilegious acts. This can include desecration of sacred books, sacred places or sacred objects. Desecration generally may be considered from the perspective of a particular religion or spiritual activity.  Desecration may be applied to natural systems or components, particularly if those systems are part of naturalistic spiritual religion."

Not sure what religion Rep. Dixon Pitcher may personally associate with Goblin Valley, but I presume that the "desecrators" also have religious views.

Sorry to get so rocked out about this.  Reality seems so much stranger than any fiction could ever contrive...

Utah Places: Hovenweep

Hovenweep is a fascinating site for those with an interest in ancient ruins.

 

 The site contains numerous towers and dwellings supposedly constructed by Anasazi indians who lived in this area ages ago.  The Anasazi civilization mysteriously disappeared at some point in the distant past.  By about 1300 AD, Hovenweep was deserted.

sunset at Hovenweep

The slots and doors of Hovenweep Castle, in Square Tower Group, have been shown to define an apparent solar calendar. The building is aligned so that light is channeled through openings into the building at sunset of the summer solstice, the winter solstice and the spring and fall equinox. The light falls in a predictable pattern on interior door lintels.

Sunlight illuminates a spiral petroglyph

ancient ruins at the edge of the canyon

curious dwelling constructed in the shelter of a boulder

 

map of the region

detail of masonry wall construction

Hovenweep Castle

ruins at sunset

 petroglyphs of hands

NPS Hovenweep Visitors Guide

Utah Places: Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley State Park

Goblin Valley is a great example of the unique geological formations found in Utah.  In the valley, there is an unusual concentration of bizarre sandstone formations commonly known locally as "hoodoos".

Sunset in Goblin Valley

According to geologists, the formations resulted from erosion of a softer stratum of the supporting column, while the more obdurate caprock resisted weathering.

Whatever the reason, the weird gnome-like formations abound in this particular locale to make a showplace unlike anything else found on earth.  Not specifically the formations by themselves, which are spectacular enough.  But just the sheer numbers of them in concentration is impressive.  Goblin Valley enjoys some degree of obscurity, being so out-of-the-way and unknown.  So there are relatively few visitors, and you may find, on a casual visit, that you have the place pretty much to yourself.  If peace and solitude is what you seek, this is a good place to find it.

 Goblins galore

Not only that, but Goblin Valley State Park sits like an oasis in the desert, with camping facilities and all kind of modern amenities.  For those wandering souls who have been braving the desert sands for any length of time, it may be that the nice clean restrooms and public showers are the main attraction.

Goblin Valley location and nearby attactions

In addition, the allure of the San Rafael Swell country beckons to the bold.

In the immediate vicinity are a number of stunning slot canyons, some of the most spectacular places on earth.

 Pothole in Little Wild Horse Canyon

 

 Little Wild Horse narrows

 Crack Canyon trailhead

twists and turns in Crack Canyon

driftwood lodged high up in Crack Canyon

 Crack Canyon narrows

 

If 4wd exploring is your interest, the "Behind the Reef" trail and some of the many other dirt trails that wind through the desert may prove attractive.  Many other unique geological formations characterize the San Rafael Swell area.

characteristic "hogback" ridges in the San Rafael Reef

4wd tracks and Factory Butte

The Factory Butte area has become the focus for many wilderness preservation arguments.  The area is a popular destination for 4wd enthusiasts, motorcycle riders, ATV operators, and mountain bikers.  Erosion and vandalism of historic mining works have become common.  Some wilderness preservationists have objected to the use of sensitive desert areas for such abusive and destructive traffic.

BLM report on Factory Butte use

Utah Places: Revisiting Mt Nebo

Recollections of my last hike on Mt Nebo.  I followed the blue trail.

I started fairly late in the morning at the Bear Canyon trailhead.

 

The trip up the east shoulder of Nebo is full of delights, ranging from deciduous brush and assorted maples and cottonwoods to aspen groves, towering evergreens, and alpine meadows lush with wildflowers.

 The trail winds up the shoulder of Nebo, through the lower elevation thickets of deciduous brush, as it enters the designated Nebo Wilderness Area, with a sign marking the border...

On into higher ground, surrounded now by spruces and firs...

 

Just taking in the scenery looking to the east from high up on the side of Nebo...

 

 On the summit ridge looking south, you can tell that Nebo is more of a long, snaky ridge than a formal mountain summit.

Nebo does sport several more formal summits, but they don't rise far above the long ridge line.  I never made it to the actual tippy top of the mountain that day.

After long dallying all day in alpine meadows, enjoying fragrant wildflowers, I found myself on the summit ridge, the day spent and nearing sunset...

 

 It was about then that I started remembering, with some small degree of alarm, all the signs I had been seeing posted around the Bear Canyon Campground area, at the foot of the mountain.  Bear Canyon, it seems, is aptly named.  Bears do frequent the area.  I have never seen any, but apparently many other people have.

O, well.  The Forest Service has to post these warning signs to limit their own public liability.  Or so I told myself, as I prepared to venture down through the forbidding darkness.  The mountain of delights now did not seem quite so friendly.

Anyway, it seems like all of a sudden started to get amazingly dark.  I'm not sure why I was surprised - after all, it tends to get dark just about every night.  There was no moonlight.  The stars were twinkling coldly.  It also gets freezing cold as soon as the sun sets, just astoundingly fast,  at that high elevation.

 I had a small flashlight in my backpack, so I was prepared to make a dash for the trailhead in the dark.

As I was tromping down the mountainside in the dark, with my tiny, pitiful little LED flash trying to light my way over countless rocks and other hazards, I kept thinking about all the signs, warning about bears in the area.  I was certainly following the directions to make lots of noise.  My boots thundered down the trail, making noise that I'm sure could be heard from miles away.  No such thing as a surreptitious egress from the wilderness.  

The little circle of light I was casting ahead did not make much of an impression on that big, dark night.  I kept remembering all those damned signs, and thinking of how the bears would enjoy browsing on all those thickets of berry and sumac bushes I kept passing in the dark.

I would imagine around every turn that I heard something crashing through the brush, off in the distance.

Happily, the miles passed with no bears making their dread presence known.  I travelled the trail back to my car without incident, but heaving a final sigh of relief.

It was some substantial number of miles to travel back to Snail Hollow, so I was very late getting home that night.  When I finally arrived, I got several lectures about how worried they were that something might have happened to me.  I had taken only a light lunch, a little water, and very sparse gearage, so I was ill prepared to spend the night on the slopes of Nebo.  But I felt shameful about my cowardly headlong flight in the dark, down the precipitous mountainside.

I prudently restrained myself from telling anything about being frightened by bears in the night.

Utah Places: Deseret Peak

 This is Deseret Peak east face with a view of the TwinCouloirs

One rather spectacular place of unsurpassed beauty that I have neglected to mention,  but deserves pointing out,  is Deseret Peak in the Stansbury Range, way out in Tooele County. I have never made the summit trek, but it is reputed to be an easy hike, about 15 miles round trip. Lots of climbing, though.  The peak elevation is over 11,000, and the trails start climbing at about 6,000 feet.  What makes it so remarkable is the pristine alpine terrain, right in the middle of the most unlikely desert terrain. That and the fact that it is far enough off the beaten path that it is seldom visited.

 View of Deseret Peak from South Willow Lake

 Another perspective of Twin Couloirs on Deseret Peak

 Alpine meadows on the northeast of Deseret Peak

Viewed through an aspen grove

When we were phasing out my contracting work for the BLM and Forest Service, I surveyed the Mill Fork of South Willow Creek area for a weed spraying bid.  This area is like an oasis in the middle of a desert.  Difficult to imagine the towering spruces and firs, and the thick aspen groves, that cover the spreading slopes of this mountain peak.  Rushing streams flow through the narrow canyons, supporting a veritable carpet of wildflowers.

Pretty early in the spring, the Mill Fork road was closed to vehicles from the Lower Narrows area, so I hiked alongside the creek up to the end of the road.  Here, at the Loop Campground, there starts the trail that leads to the peak.   This is where I ended my journey and started back to the truck.

Perhaps I should add, I made this trek after I had already experienced my first stroke episode in 2009.  I was not yet so paralyzed that I could not roll along at a fair gait, with the assistance of my sturdy cane.  Since then, things have become so much worse for me, and I could never do this trek today.

I left my dad with the pickup parked back at the Lower Narrows where the road was blocked off.  He started to worry about me after I had been gone for more than two hours.  He asked some Forest Service employees that happened to be passing by if they would allow him past the barricades to start searching for me.  But just about the time he was preparing to set out, I returned to the truck, thoroughly weary from the fairly short and easy walk.

There is apparently an active rock climbing group that favors the climbing wall offering itself at the Narrows of Mill Fork.  When we visited there, I saw that the egress to climbing routes was accomplished using an old mattress, strategically placed in the middle of the stream.  Perhaps a top rope belay uses this spot to rest on while protecting ascending climbers.  Anyway, it was rather a curiosity.

Another remarkable thing that I remember was one of the signs posted alongside the county road leading into the area.   The sign proclaimed a county ordinance forbidding anyone from bringing glass containers into public lands.

County Code prohibits glass containers on lands open to the public:

Tooele County Code
Title 6 - Public Safety
Chapter 18

Miscellaneous Provisions

6-18-6. Possession or use of glass containers on lands open to public access prohibited.

I've never seen anything like this before.  Don't know what bothers folks in Tooele County about those pernicious glass containers.  I suspect some local political officer had a bad experience with a flat tire, or some such.

Anyway, to get to the Deseret Peak area, you can follow the Mormon Trail Road from Grantsville, until you reach signs directing you to South Willow Canyon.  Though a long drive from Salt Lake area, well worth the investment in travel miles.

Some nice links here and here...

Or peruse the Wiki entry.