Utah Places: Goblin Valley

Goblin Valley State Park

Goblin Valley is a great example of the unique geological formations found in Utah.  In the valley, there is an unusual concentration of bizarre sandstone formations commonly known locally as "hoodoos".

Sunset in Goblin Valley

According to geologists, the formations resulted from erosion of a softer stratum of the supporting column, while the more obdurate caprock resisted weathering.

Whatever the reason, the weird gnome-like formations abound in this particular locale to make a showplace unlike anything else found on earth.  Not specifically the formations by themselves, which are spectacular enough.  But just the sheer numbers of them in concentration is impressive.  Goblin Valley enjoys some degree of obscurity, being so out-of-the-way and unknown.  So there are relatively few visitors, and you may find, on a casual visit, that you have the place pretty much to yourself.  If peace and solitude is what you seek, this is a good place to find it.

 Goblins galore

Not only that, but Goblin Valley State Park sits like an oasis in the desert, with camping facilities and all kind of modern amenities.  For those wandering souls who have been braving the desert sands for any length of time, it may be that the nice clean restrooms and public showers are the main attraction.

Goblin Valley location and nearby attactions

In addition, the allure of the San Rafael Swell country beckons to the bold.

In the immediate vicinity are a number of stunning slot canyons, some of the most spectacular places on earth.

 Pothole in Little Wild Horse Canyon

 

 Little Wild Horse narrows

 Crack Canyon trailhead

twists and turns in Crack Canyon

driftwood lodged high up in Crack Canyon

 Crack Canyon narrows

 

If 4wd exploring is your interest, the "Behind the Reef" trail and some of the many other dirt trails that wind through the desert may prove attractive.  Many other unique geological formations characterize the San Rafael Swell area.

characteristic "hogback" ridges in the San Rafael Reef

4wd tracks and Factory Butte

The Factory Butte area has become the focus for many wilderness preservation arguments.  The area is a popular destination for 4wd enthusiasts, motorcycle riders, ATV operators, and mountain bikers.  Erosion and vandalism of historic mining works have become common.  Some wilderness preservationists have objected to the use of sensitive desert areas for such abusive and destructive traffic.

BLM report on Factory Butte use

Utah Places: Timpanogos Front End

I´m sure most all resident of Utah have witnessed the awesome transformation. Mount Timpnogos is colored with the fiery blaze of sunset as the orange ball disappears behind the Oquirrh Mountains in the west. The backdrop of dramatic scenery is nearly wasted on hoardes of hurrying Wasatch Front residents, packed onto I-15, jamming up the freeway during rush hour. Instead of enjoying the beauty, too many are cultivating their hypertension and considering another road-rage incident on the public highway.

Up close and personal, the south and west slopes of Timp are not nearly as well developed as the traditional Mutual Dell or Timpanooke or Aspen Grove on the east or north. As it happens, there are roads, but they are not for the timid. Best suited for 4wd or ATV. Many trails lead out from the Pleasant Grove and Orem high bench areas. The lower down regions tend to be clogged with houses, but after you get by them, you´re on your own. If you venture out, you will discover there are many false leads, as well. Lots if rugged individualists have left their mark here. As a result, there are trails through the thick chapparal that lead everywhere and nowhere. Pick your course with some judicious care, and be prepared to backtrack.

Not that the lowland parks are bad. They serve their purpose well, and get lots of use. But to those few to whom the freedom of the hills beckons..

In several canyons on the west face of Timp, I have picked up many fossil specimens. Some of the canyons that run down the west face are apparently eroded through the layers of geological time, exposing the fossilized wonders of the past that were witnessed before the slopes were raised high. I won´t tell exactly where -- that would be giving away too much. But for the ambitious, they can be found, in great variety and profusion.

There is a mountain road that affords access to higher ground, accesible through Timpoonokie Campground. It is a long drive that wind around the shoulder of the mountain, eventually ending up in meadows above Pleasant Grove. A very nice place for a picnic, or just look at the wild flowers and enjoy the view. The view is unparalleled.

Utah Places: Snow Canyon

If I didn´t know about Snow Canyon State Park, I would think there are people trying to keep it secret. It must be the most under publicized and unknown parks in Utah.

Sculptured sandstone beckons the intrepid climber to test the grip of his soles, and many wind-shaped bowls and pockets form a natural sandy playground for children. A good collection of live dunes graces the middle area of the park, with plenty of clean pink sand.

Several scenes from the film ¨Jeremiah Johnson" were staged in the Snow Canyon State Park area. Maybe you can re-enact the scene where Jeremiah and Caleb encounter Del Gue buried in the sand.

Also convenient to this location are several small volcanic ash cones that are a short, fun hike.

Utah Places: Virgin River

The Virgin River cuts across southern Utah like a meandering giant knife. It leaves deep scars across the land from its passage as it carries the burden of silt and rock ever southward. Some of the scars of passage have left behind the most fascinating chronicle of passage. Twisting and tortuous, the Virgin River Gorge guides the north/south avenue of Interstate 15, which many travellers pass over, never stopping to consider how the passage was crafted. One grain at a time, the river has worn away at the rock an eaten the river bed down. The wind and rain have worked their part. Every bright sunbeam in the merciless heat, all the long nights of frost and freezing, even geological disturbances like fault shifting and earthquakes have done their work on this twisted, alien moonscape, producing such a blasted hades of rock and sand that even desert-adapted struggle for a bare foothold in the most inhospitible barren spots. Not even hardy lichen venture onto these rocks in the savage, baking heat of the full sun.

The easiest way to see the marvel of desolation is from the comfort of your air-conditioned car. For the hardy and boot-leather restless, try the Virgin River Recreation Area campground as a base of operations. Hosted by the BLM, it is virtually empty all year round, and give convenient access to explore the marvelous desert surroundings.

While you are there, take note of the fact that you are within the region now known as the ¨Arizona Strip¨, so notorious among those who battle against the raging wildfires that spring up in the area so frequently.

Utah Places: Zions Canyon

If you were creating some of the most spectacular and enjoyable scenery on earth, and you had unlimited time and resources, you would probably come up with something very much like Zions. It is so beautiful, just to describe it in words is a cliche.

One of the problems with Zions park is that it encompasses such a vast area. Touristy types generally stray not too far from the standard fare -- although this is like saying the menu is full with prime rib. The well publicized main features of the park are unique and spectacular attractions. But a short distance from the main track, there are other wonders to behold...



Take the hike upstream from the canyon, and as it , and you encounter the Narrows -- an amazing labyrinth of twists and turns as the upper reaches of the Virgin River climb higher onto the Kapirowits Plateau. As with all canyon hikes, be mindful of frigid water, keeper potholes, and flash flooding with no advance notice flushing through.

Other hikes of note -- and notorious -- include many nearly subterranean adventures through slot canyons, like the famous Subway, pictured here. The Subway is reached via the Wildcat Canyon Trailhead on the highway northeast of the town of Virgin.


Here is another photo of a Zions backcountry destination -- Orderville Canyon. It must be seen to be appreciated. Nothing less than eyes on can convey the scope and breadth of majestic sculpture in these massive canyons.

Utah Places: Lower Logan Canyon

Lower Logan Canyon has attractions that have awed generations since man first began visiting this locale. Just a few miles from the temple and the Utah State campus,-the scenery starts, and just never ends. The highway ends up circling Bear Lake at the north end, and passes by so many magnificent natural and man-made attractions in the next few miles, it makes them difficult to enumerate in a single post, so I'll take two. Since I'm on a leisure vacation myself, I'll take some time.

Just above the mouth of the canyon, don't stop under the box elders unless you' re a behavioural anthropologist into studying deviant sexuality. Higher up there are pleasant riverside picnic areas and camping areas, though they are packed with people on the weekends and throughout the summer.

Above the lowest part of the canyon looms a massif worthy of exploration and climbing for an alpinists lifetime. Hiking trails lead up the steep sides of the canyon in every direction.

First notable stop is the wind caves trail above the mouth of the canyon about five miles. Weird wind carved rock and arches are featured in a short but popular hike.

Next, bear sharp to the left and watch for the Jardine Juniper trail. This is a spectacular find, an ancient specimen of Juniperous utahensis, Utah juniper, many thousands of years old.
The hike is hot and dry in summer heat, so remember to bring water. There's plenty when you get back, but take a bit for drinks along the way.

Along the highway further, there are several branches off to the right. These are worth exploring, especially with a 4wd vehicle. One notable site is Ol' Ephraim's Grave, a monument to a grizzly bear that frequented these hills and terrorized sheep camps for generations. His grave is near here and is memorialized as legedarey.

To the left, near the top of the grade is the left hand fork to Tony Grove. This road is a don't miss, come back again, just to see it is an attraction in itself. I won't spoil the fun trying to describe it, but here is a picture of the Tony Grove basin that waits at the end of the road.

Are you tantalized?

Utah Places: Mount Nebo

Nebo is seen from the freeway by travellers and is probably the most prominent landmark on the Wasatch Front that may get the least credit as a spectacular place to visit.

There are so many good things to list, I hardly know where to start.

One of the most interesting for boot-leather enthusiasts is that Nebo is a great place to hike. My favorite is starting from the Bear Canyon area, climbing up one of the many shoulder ridge trails to the summit ridge, and along to one of Nebo's summits. Nebo is actually a rather long, narrow north-south ridge with several "summits" of substantial height. They're all kind of crumbly talus decomposing sedimentary rock, loose and sliding, so the trails are pretty informally defined. If you actually find yourself so high, look west and find Nephi and Mona down below your feet, and Utah lake stretching out further to the west and north, with Payson/Santaquin just below to the right, Spanish Fork further, and Provo/Orem sprawling offinto the far distance on the north, Santaqin Peak and Loafer Mountain northeast, and west the other of side the Lake Mountains, out into parts of the West Desert, south to the mountains down the Wasatch chain in the Red Cliffs area and further, and east across to Baldy and the Skyline on the Wasatch Plateau. Nebo also has a good summit trail coming fairly straight up from the Nephi/Mona side, but I have never hiked it.

On the scenic menu, Mount Nebo shelters a Bryce-Canyon-like formation called Devil's Kitchen.


Okay, it's not Bryce Canyon, but it is beautiful, and worth the time to look.

Also on the regular drive across Nebo that is billed as the "Nebo Loop" is Payson Lakes, which is a marvellous place for a Sunday afternoon picnic or a short holiday drive in the mountains, or to come to see the autumn leaves, or whatever.


Payson Lakes is one area that has become popular enough to assume Disneyland proportions, so there is a blacktop track paved around the main lake for the benefit of joggers, bikers, walkers, stroller, what have you. Don't let it bother you, its overall a good thing.

If you just love camping with you family in campgrounds, there are some of the best around on or around the slopes of Nebo. I personally love Blackhawk. My preference. There is also Bear Canyon, if you love big cottonwoods and tall evergreens. It's on the south side, Blackhawk is northeast, so they give different perspectives at different times of year.

There are other campgrounds further off the beaten path that you can search out. I'm not going to name any here, because the people that use them think they own them. Maybe they do.

Personally, I would prefer to depart from the road by a wide margin and camp somewhere in the tall weeds. But I know this is not for everyone. I like hearing coyotes howl at the moon on the ridge after midnight, and owl hoots early in the morning before sunup. I want to find the snake trail across my path and the spider web in my boot. Ants in my granola are okay, I'm just more careful to keep the package closed next time.

Using a tree for bathroom needs has turned into a major problem for me. My last outing on our Milford Flats project, I had several accidents, and only an understanding and patient partner (with a not too sensitive nose) kept me from big-time breaking down out of just plain humiliation. Dealing with this kind of thing is a regular fact of life issue for families with babies and young children, and to a lesser degree, some adults are simply less comfortable or less adept. Using public facilities has always been emotionally uncomfortable for me, and now there is the hazard of unknown communicable germs ever present. It is a difficult problem, made worse by circumstances some of us cannot help. Under my present handicap, I found that under urgent need, I just could not physically get out of the tent, unencumbered from sleeping bag and other paraphernalia in time, and as a result, was unable to stop myself from peeing all over my person and my bedclothes. I do not know what exactly to recommend, and am hoping for some good suggestions. Other than carrying a shovel and a good supply of wet-wipes, I am a beginner.

Utah Places: Alpine Loop

There isn't a photo that does any part of it justice. The entire loop is a tour of magnificence, either direction you approach from, the Alpine side, or the Sundance side.

 A Profusion of Wildflowers

 Wyethia

Timapnogos is the crowning centerpiece throughout the drive. Around every corner there are sights and scenes of wonder to behold.

 Epilobium

Every season the tableau changes. From spring to summer through fall, there is never a day that the scene is the same. The road closes sometime early in the winter, whenever county snow plows can no longer push their way safely through the deepening drifts. Then they abandon the road until next spring to the ski touring and snow machines.

The mountain itself is so loved and so popular, there are hundreds of attractions on the sides and within the near vicinity. I will only list a few of the less visited and rarely known. The others, you can find yourself as you wind around the foot of Timp, working your way over that venerable old shoulder.

Utah Places: Uinta West Side Meadows and Lakes

Mirror Lake and China Meadows are good examples. There are countless others less crowded or with slightly different character. What are you looking for? Trial Lake is good for fishing. Wall Lake is a great fishing spot, in addition to spectacular scenery and a short hike.

Mirror Lake is good scenery and good car camping, right off the highway. Crowded, though.

Christmas and China Meadows host an incredible array of wildflowers in season. Wildlife in abundance. Birds flocking through. And always hoards of chipmunks and squirrels scurrying around.  You might spot an elk or some deer, or even a moose!

Utah Places: High Uintas

There are a thousand scenes like this along the Highline Trail of the High Uintas Wilderness, so many as to make this one almost unremarkable, except you should know this particular one is Jean Lake. I have spent time on various locations along the Highline Trail through the years, and if you love wilderness, hiking, and fishing in the splendor of unparalleled high mountain outdoor environment, this is the place. Get away from the WalMart crowds, head for the clean air and clear waters. You'll not regret a minute of it.

My favorite ingress for the High Uinta Wilderness is through the Grandaddy Lakes Basin. It is the deepest penetration and the highest trailhead on the south side of the mountains. Access to all kinds of opportunities from there, including unlimited beauty and the freedom of the hills.

Utah Places: Arches

Again, not slighting easily accessed locations, Arches makes a spot near the top of the list as one of the world's geological wonders. A collection of rare self-supporting sandstone arches unrivalled anywhere on earth, as well as many other impressive and mighty sandstone formations make Arches a must-visit venue. Nearby Moab offers lots of other high-tech and new-age yuppie enticements, but for the true boot-leather on the ground enthusiast, best stay away from there except perhaps for food or gas. Inside the park boundaries is everything you need to keep you busy for days on end, looking, learning, gawking, and hiking. If arches make you tired, try columns. Tired of columns? Try natural windows. Through with those? How about climbing sand dunes? Next, try mesas for a change of pace. Then, when you get tuckered out on climbing to the top of mesas, look for different geological strata represented in the sandstone layers. See how many eras you can find represented within different formations. Then ask about creatures and fauna that lived during those periods, and see if you can guess where you might locate fossils within the area.

Utah Places: Buckskin Gulch, Paria River

You cannot imagine a human feeling smaller under the face of the earth than in place in the bottom of Buckskin Gulch. The walls simply tower so high above at times that human size are like ants by comparison. It is awe-inspiring and awesome. I know nothing to describe or compare. Pictures are just inadequate. Dont do justice to the grand scale of things.

It was all frozen when I was walking. Many of the hikers are repeatedly wet during warmer months. It can be impossible to turn around because deep pools of water prevent you from going upstream once you have slid over boulders to enter the pool beneath them.

It can be a hike that plays for keeps. But the beauty is beyond description.

I did most access cross country hiking. Not supposed to do that. I didn't ask permission, only the rooks were watching. It was my solitary experience.

I also visited a mountain mesa called the White House nearby. Camped out on Paria River area for three days. Never saw another person the whole time. It was very special to me. I have never told about it before.